Online retailers face a hard road ahead.
After the pandemic e-commerce boom ended, growth of online sales was naturally set to slow down. But the deceleration is proving even more pronounced than anticipated. Instead of the 10 percent rise in global e-commerce sales initially anticipated for 2024, growth is on track to reach only 8.8 percent for the year, according to estimates from analytics firm eMarketer. That compares with growth of 12 percent to 14 percent in the years prior to Covid, according to a 2023 BCG report.
The trend is set to continue. By 2027, growth will fall to 7.4 percent, eMarketer forecasts.
While many expect e-commerce to keep eating up an increasing share of overall retail sales, the slowing pace may signal more problems to come for some online fashion firms. Last year, leading luxury e-tailers Farfetch and Matches were sold to South Koreaâs Coupang and Frasers Group, respectively, in last minute deals following consecutive quarters of sales and profit dips. Richemont is in the process of selling off its loss-making e-tailer Yoox-Net-a-Porter, which saw its sales drop 15 percent year over year in the quarter that ended in June.
âPeople donât really feel like theyâre getting a deal online anymore,â said Jay Sole, a managing director at investment bank UBS, which found in a survey earlier this year that the share of US consumers who said theyâd bought clothing, footwear or accessories online in the previous 12 months dropped from 86 percent in 2023 to 83 percent in 2024.
The bank noted that online browsing wasnât necessarily translating to more online purchases, as shoppers still want to try products before they buy them and have become less sensitive to the price differences between e-commerce and stores.
It predicted online sales growth would slow, and though it noted it wasnât the consensus view, drew a stark conclusion: âThis is a change from our prior view where we thought online would continue to take meaningful market share from brick & mortar channels.â
While some companies have already shifted focus to their stores, where they generate profitable growth, the ones that are reliant on e-commerce could find themselves needing to ramp up investment in physical retail and explore selling models theyâve previously shunned, like social commerce.
âThere are a few leading brands and retailers that are actually still able to get that growth and continue at a healthy clip,â said Darpan Seth, chief executive of software firm Nextuple, which does online and offline order management for retailers. âThe rest of the industry needs to also understand what does this change, what does this mean for them and how do they go after that same growth? Itâs going to take a little bit of time to catch up.â
A Sea Change
While consumers arenât abandoning e-commerce entirely, their attitudes towards the channel are shifting, in part due to changes imposed by retailers themselves.
In addition to charging for returns, brands are raising the minimum amount that shoppers have to spend before qualifying for free shipping to offset the rise in logistics costs, said Brian Ehrig, a partner in the consumer practice of management consulting firm Kearney. According to the UBS report, 41 percent of the surveyed shoppers cited free delivery as the top reason to buy online, ranking it higher than other factors like saving time or the ease of searching for goods.
Also, the ways that brands and retailers have responded to consumersâ behavioural changes â and mandates from investors to operate more profitably â havenât helped e-commerce either. Brands have been pulling back on increasingly expensive digital ads that drive online sales and expanding their retail footprints. The rationale is that it helps them more cost-effectively appeal to consumers who shop both online and in-stores, under the belief that this cohort spends more in the long term.
The strategy has led to profitable growth for loss-making digitally native brands such as Rothyâs and Warby Parker. But itâs taken away from the broader e-commerce pot.
âBoth channels will always evolve to balance consumer desires and businessesâ profitability needs,â said Simeon Siegel, managing director and senior analyst of retail and e-commerce at BMO Capital Markets. âFor the last decade, we tilted towards the consumer desires. Now weâre flexing back towards running rational businesses.â
Bucking the Trend
The brands investing in stores should be well-positioned to survive the slowdown and meet consumer preferences.
Brands that are hesitant, or donât have the capital, to invest in physical retail should use customer location data from their online sites to open stores or experiment with pop-ups in areas where they know they can drive enough sales to make up for operational expenses, Ehrig said.
Revolve has taken this path. The e-tailer, known for its glitzy occasionwear, opened its first permanent store in Aspen this June after a pop-up in the resort city last December exceeded expectations.
âFish where the fish are. Donât try to use your brand to bring people to a pond where they donât normally swim,â said Brent Vartan, managing partner at investment firm and creative agency Bullish.
Other brands have been leaning into retail partnerships amid the slowdown. Digitally native shoe maker Taft, known for its $300 lace-up boots, is working closely with multi-brand retailers like Macyâs to make sure its product selection in their stores can bring in new customers.
âWeâre very much an ecommerce company. Thatâs the core of our business. So, [the slowdown] affects us directly,â said Taftâs Brand President, Cameron Eggertz. âIt wasnât this big shock that came out of the blue. But at the same time, weâve got to be preparing for it, which we have been.â
A physical presence can also bolster e-commerce over time as repeat customers go online to replenish items. Features like buy-online-and-pick-up-in-store, as well as using stores to fulfil online orders faster for nearby shoppers, can help restore the convenience that consumers feel is missing, Nextupleâs Seth said.
But even if more brands invest in retail, many others will have to make efforts to revitalise growth in their e-commerce channels. Companies should consider turning up their commerce efforts on social media as more consumers flock to TikTok Shop to buy goods, said Sonia Lapinsky, fashion lead at consultancy AlixPartners. Social commerce has helped fuel growth for Shein and Temu, which also have pricing advantages, and will likely shield regions like Asia from the broader e-commerce growth slump, she added.
âWe in North America have a lot to learn from Asia, and weâre just starting to see the traction that social selling is getting,â Lapinsky said. âIf people are on their phones and they want to interact and they want that kind of adrenaline rush sort of shock, I think thatâs one of the big things that we can pull from the Chinese brands.â
Ultimately, the emphasis should be less on the specific channel than on running a business that satisfies consumer desires and meets profit goals. Kearneyâs Ehrig said brands are never going to double or triple their growth every year indefinitely. Some slowdown is always inevitable.
âItâs not that fruitful to focus so much on the growth of e-commerce sales as opposed to the health of the brand,â he said. âIf your brand is in really good shape then all of your channels are going to be doing well.â